Teni Tea
Teni Tea - The Tenieshvili Family's Story
Teni Tea is a family-run tea farm nestled in the lush green region of Guria, Georgia. What makes this farm unique is its history - it was the first Soviet-era plantation in Georgia to be successfully restored.
Owner Dato Tenieshvili is a true tea master. As the first-ever member of the Tea Growers Association, he now serves as the Regional Head for Guria.
Guria is the heartland of Georgian tea, there were times when it was filled with thousands of hectares of tea bushes. Its subtropical climate and its great water supply makes guria ideal ideal for farming, especially tea farming, and one can find the finest tea made in Georgia.
Tea history starts right here in Guria region in 1799, when Prince Mamia Gurieli – the last ruler of Guria Principality – smuggled the first Chinese plants into Georgia to endow his botanical garden.
In the 1840s-60s, the Russian Empire took an interest in Georgia’s tea-growing potential and started to grow tea at an industrial scale. They couldn’t have done it without the guidance of Chinese tea expert Lao Jin Jao, who was invited to steer the fledgling industry.
Under the Soviet Union, hand-plucking was replaced with mechanical harvesting so that by the 1980s, tea employed almost 200,000 people across 70,000 hectares of plantations and 25-plus factories.
At its peak, Soviet Georgia harvested 600,000 tonnes of tea leaves, making it the fifth-largest producer in the world!
Of course that all came to an end when the Soviet Union collapsed, taking the tea market and Georgia’s export links – and thousands of families’ livelihoods – down with it.
Dato Tenieshvili grew up in a small village nearby and had worked in the tea industry like everyone else there. But then, the 1990s happened. Civil war eruptine, mafia groups ruled and fought, and industry was crippled.
Electricity was an intermittent luxury, tea factories were looted and sold for scrap, uncared for plantations were overrun with weeds, and from being ubiquitous, tea became expensive and imported. One day, Dato was seized with the desire to drink a cup of tea. Finding none in the house, he decided he would make it himself – a decision that would change his life.
At first, he plucked tea and rolled it by hand, but soon enough he'd cobbled together a tea roller from an old barrel and some roofing sheets, getting round the electricity issue with a homemade waterwheel to dunk in the river. Word soon got out that Dato was making some really great tea, and the business snowballed from there. While the factory now uses state-of-the-art Chinese machinery, the personal, caring, and handmade touch remains present in every gram of product.
Dato and his son Gabriel are firm believers in natural methods and the path to their tea factory winds through their kitchen
garden and orchard which drips with fresh pears and kiwis. As their enterprise grew, so too did the Georgian Organic Producers’ Association, of which they were founding members. This scheme focuses heavily on soil health, and the Tenieshvili's plantation shows the benefits: rich, healthy and productive bushes fed only by a system of composting.
Dato's uncompromising principles are evident in the lovely shape of the bushes which helps give light to all leaves.
These days, the Tenieshvili family manages three fields containing heritage 80-year-old bushes. They use organic methods to produce fine Chinese-style green, white and black tea.make some really excellent teas, including some wild teas from a nearby rewilded tea forest, also Gurian style wild blueberry leaf tisane from the slopes of nearby Gomismta mountain.
Most of the pickers are local women who used to work on the collective farms. Dato’s son, Gabriel, now heads up the operation.
